The Importance of Cleansers

Let’s talk Cleansers

Do you think of cleansers as something you should use, but feel the ingredients don’t matter much because you wash them off? I used to be in that camp but I have learned better and I’m here to share.

Our skin has a natural, protective barrier that serves an important function for our skin health and as part of our immune system. It’s important to keep this barrier healthy and intact so that it can protect us from pathogens and keep moisture in. We need water underneath and oil on top (think salad dressing) to keep everything running smoothly.

Cleansers are the foundation of a great skincare routine. Cleansers contain surfactants, many of which interact negatively with the skin. The wrong type of surfactant can enter the skin barrier, deplete the lipids and create inflammation in the skin. This can also create dry skin and flaking. The correct surfactants will reduce inflammation and will contribute to having healthy skin and a healthy skin barrier.

Have you ever washed your face with a cleanser and had your skin feel tight afterward? If so, you have stripped the barrier and now whatever moisture your skin makes will just evaporate. You might find that your serum or moisturizer feels a little stingy. That’s because it’s now penetrating deeper into your skin than it was meant to. Often people think that they have sensitive skin when really their skin is sensitized because of this continual stripping and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). When this happens, even water can sting.

So, we want to cleanse the skin, but we want to work with the skin so that too much TEWL doesn’t happen. When you set the stage for healthy skin, the rest of your products (such as expensive serums) will penetrate to the correct level and will perform better.

I’ll go over the different types of cleansers that I carry and how they can be used.

Cleansers fall into three basic categories - gel cleansers, creme cleansers, and oil cleansers.

Gel Cleansers

This is the most common type. These cleansers foam, and are most likely to strip the skin if not well formulated. Gel cleansers are used by mixing with water, making a lather, and massaging into the skin. They are rinsed off with water and are best for people who tend to be more on the oily side or who most commonly wash their face in the shower. In my studio, these would be: Roccoco Fruit Gel Wash, Hale & Hush Quiet Wash, Face Reality Ultra Gentle Cleanser.

Creme Cleansers

These cleansers are applied directly to the skin, massaged in, and then rinsed off with warm water. These cleansers are best for dry or sensitive and/or more mature skin. They don’t really make any lather. In my studio, this would be the Roccoco Hibiscus Milk Cleanser. 

Oil Cleansers

Oil cleansers are applied to dry skin and massaged in with clean, dry hands. The longer you massage, the better. This cleanser is removed by gently wiping with a warm, wet washcloth. If this type of cleanser is not formulated correctly (as in a straight oil with no surfactant) it will just smear the oil and debris on your skin and won’t actually cleanse the skin. Roccoco oil cleansers contain a gentle surfactant and so do a terrific job of cleansing the skin. There are two oil cleansers that are similar in formulation, Pore Cleansing Oil which is good for normal to oily skin, and Soothing Cleansing Oil which has some extra ingredients to calm reactive, dry, or rosacea skin types. 

Many people think that dry, irritated skin just needs a good moisturizer, and while that is certainly one part of the equation, a more important first step in healing a compromised skin barrier is the proper cleanser.